This is one of those things that has been around for a long time. Back in the olden days when the 3PDT switch was hard to get and cost as much as all of the other parts that went into a box. There was a need for a status LED that could be operated from a DPDT type switch.
Then there was the 3PDT revolution. The blue switches became cheap and plentiful. I had bought a few of the Carling DPDT switches before the revolution. Still having these around I threw one into an SHO clone. I figured I wouldn’t need an LED. Over time I found myself using this more often than anything else. I had built another with a 3PDT and an LED, but I gave this to a friend. You can’t let your friends run around using your products without and LED? They will start saying things to people like: “this thing is great, just wish it had an LED…”
So anyway, I finally decided I’d put an LED in my SHO, and of course I don’t have a 3PDT on hand! Which of course brings us back to the Millennium Bypass. I had never tried this before. I found a Vero layout, 4 by 5, on DIYStompboxes. Built the whole thing in 15 minutes. Worked like a charm!
The box I had was not originally designed for an LED. So I found some empty space and drilled a hole. I mounted the tiny circuit board from the LED, which was attached to the bezel.
I used a bezel from mammoth electronics. These look like many of the other chrome bezels of similar style. What’s nice about these is they have rubber, rather than plastic, plug to hold the LED in. This makes a nice tight fit and doesn’t leave you thinking it might come loose.
(Note sure what happened, but all of the pictures above seem to have imported upside down?)
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